I think it’s first important for us to explain what are the signs of ageing, because my concerns and your concerns when it comes to ageing are not the same.
Understanding the skin’s ageing process informs decisions about how to treat it. There are three main manifestations of general skin ageing. Each one affects the look of the face in a different way.
Signs of ageing
South Africa is the country that encompasses people of diverse origins, there are four main racial population groups: Black African (79.2%), Caucasian (8.9%), Coloured (8.9%), Asian (3%).
The signs of ageing are age and race dependent and are also due to external causes like smoking and too much sun exposure. As we age, our skin changes, therefore in the 20s it’s more about prevention, in the 30s we see expression lines and pigmentation from the sun damage and in the 40s the lines become more severe and prominent. In the 50s there is massive volume loss. That is why the moisturiser that worked so well in your 20s and 30s might not meet the same needs your skin has by the time you hit your 40s and 50s.
Fitzpatrick phototype IV – VI, that includes, Coloured, Asians and African skin ages differently, because of this the first signs of ageing which include skin dullness, dryness, pigmentation and fine lines and these are often missed. Firtzpatrick phototype I – III, that includes Caucasians, fine lines appear first, and over time wrinkles, a loss of volume and a loss of density become noticeable.
Age spots and pigmentation can be caused by chronic sun exposure, ultraviolet (UV) light exposure, chemical interactions, inflammation or distressed skin, hormonal fluctuations, and internal skin ageing.
Ageing skin produces less oil, so we need to help maintain the moisture balance in our skin, without stripping away the natural oils. Plus, with the signs of ageing starting to show, we need our skincare solutions to evolve with our skin’s changing needs.
This means anti-ageing creams need to include products that strengthen and thicken the skin, provide moisture retention and barrier renewal, yet not too harsh or abrasive.
Anti-ageing agents
The normal ageing process and environmental stress depletes the skin of its endogenous protective antioxidants.
There are two main groups of agents that can be used as anti-ageing cosmetic components, antioxidants and cell regulators. Antioxidants, such as vitamins, reduce collagen degradation by reducing the concentration of free radicals (FR) in the tissues. The most well-known systemic antioxidants are vitamin C, vitamin E and carotenoids. All easily penetrate the skin when applied topically because of their small molecular weight. Cell regulators, such as retinoids have direct effects on collagen metabolism and influence collagen production.
Vitamin A (retinoids) and its derivatives (retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde and tretinoin) are a group of agents that also have antioxidants effects. Vitamin A, contributes to the effacement of fine lines, it improves skin hydration and makes the epidermis thicker and they decrease the pigmentation due to photodamage.
Topical vitamin C, increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts and therefore has a potential to reduce wrinkle appearance.
Vitamins C and E inhibit acute UV damage demonstrated as a reduction in erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer.
In the 20s it’s all about protection and prevention, so lots of sunscreen. During the 30s it’s still about protection, but also repair with products that have retinol for everyone above 30. In the 40s and 50s more repair, using products that have antioxidants, retinol and alpha hydroxy acid and moisturising to keep the skin barrier intact.
Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), improves uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves skin barrier and helps the skin to repair signs of past damage that leads to older looking skin and dullness.
Thus, exogenous topical creams are capable of preventing the occurrence and reducing the severity of UV-induced skin damage and skin ageing.
Sunscreen
We can never talk about anti-ageing and leave out sun protection.
Sunscreen protects against UVB and UVA. UVB causes sunburn, and UVA has more long-term damaging effects on the skin, such as premature ageing
Moisturising your skin
Anti-ageing creams are predominantly moisturiser based cosmeceutical skin care products.
The daily routine of showering and scrubbing your body with soap can remove layers of dry, dead skin, which is good, but it can also strip your skin of protective oils. Moisturisers that contain ceramides, can help to repair and protect the skin.
As we age, our cells become less robust in maintaining their role integrity and dry up and shrink. Applying a moisturizer to your skin can increase the moisture level of the stratum corneum, prevent skin from drying out. Regardless of age, everyone wants their skin to look glossy, radient, and plump.
The main purpose of a moisturizering is to hydrate the skin, and to reinforce the natural skin barrier. Most moisturizers offer additional benefits, such as sun protection and anti-aging. Using the right kind of moisturizer for your skin can help maintain its balance. Gylcerine, lock in moisture within the cells and leads to reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.
Moisturisers with Hyaluronic acid (HA) secures moisture and creates fullness. HA keeps collagen synthesis up, contributing to the anti-aging benefits to the skin. Higher levels of collagen and hyaluronic acid are related to skin that is more supple and resistant to wrinkles and fine lines.
Tips to avoid premature ageing
Time is of essence when it comes to anti-ageing skincare.
Start anti-ageing care as early as the 20’s and skincare regime is determined by what one can afford and also depends on what signs are there that needs to be corrected.
Skincare with an antioxidant (Vitamin C) in the day and a retinol cream at night, they both stimulate collagen and reduce the signs of ageing. Vitamin E reduces UV damage, nourishes and protects your skin. Niacinamide improve skin brightness, it helps renew and restore the surface of the skin. A moisturiser with hyaluronic acid, moisturises the skin and assist in collagen synthesis.
One can mix the different brands depending on their preference and what has proven to give best results on the problem being treated based on clinical studies. Using gentle products made from high-quality ingredients with less irritants, fragrances and additives is more important.
All skin types must always wear sunscreen, through out the year everyday.
Prepared by:
Dr Nomphelo Gantsho
(Sc.; B. Sc (Hons)Sc.; MBCHB;FC Derm (SA))
www.capeskindoctor.com
CapeSkinDoctor